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Corfu Island

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CORFU ISLAND

Corfu mapMountains. Over 200km of coastline. Royal connections. Sunshine. The second-largest of the Ionian Islands was one of the first Greek destinations to embrace mass tourism. Yet Corfu has far more to offer than just sun, sea and souvlaki. It is located just west of the Greek mainland and the southern coast of Albania. Shaped like a sickle, with its hollow side facing inwards, the island is about 65 kilometres long and 32 kilometres across at its widest point. There are 217 kilometres of coast, although anyone venturing inland will find that the interior has at least as much to offer as the shore. Much of Corfu is mountainous. At 906 metres above sea level, its highest peak, Mount Pantokrator, is visible from most places on the island.

These days, Corfu caters for everyone, including those who prefer to travel independently or who want to elude busy resorts. Resident Janet Balaoura has seen the island change in the years since she first moved there, and remembers the bad press resulting from the over-development that took place in the Eighties. "It's seen a lot of changes," she says. "It's coming back now. It's a beautiful island – I love it with a passion."

Some resorts, including Sidari on the north coast and Kavos on the east, still cater predominantly for mass tourism. First Choice (0871 200 7799; www.firstchoice. co.uk) and Thomas Cook (0870 010 0437; www.thomascook.com) are among the many companies offering package holidays to resorts all over the island.

Villa accommodation is popular in the north-east of the island, where the mountainous coastline and beautiful bays offer spectacular settings for secluded houses. Among the operators that are offering properties in this area is James Villas (0800 074 0177; www.jamesvillas.co.uk), a family-run business which has a number of attractive villas on the island. Most of the properties sleep six people, although some are larger.

One of Corfu's best-known budget options is the Pink Palace (00 30 26610 53103; www.thepinkpalace.com) at Agios Gordios beach in Sinarades. The rose-coloured building sprawls across the hillside, and offers dormitory accommodation from €18 (£15), and double rooms from €27 (£22.50) per person; these rates include breakfast and a three-course dinner, as well as free transport from ferries, planes and buses.

For those who just want a taste of the place, Corfu is a destination on a number of cruises, including the 10-night tour "Around the Ionian Sea" operated by easyCruise (0871 210 0001; www.easycruise. com). Cabins are available from £210 for the trip; meals and travel to and from Athens are extra. The ship docks at 10am, and remains in the harbour until 5am the following morning, giving passengers plenty of time to explore a little of the island, or to enjoy the charms of Corfu Town, the only Corfiot settlement of any real size. Corfu Town is towards the south of the island; both the international airport and the port are a short walk from the old town.

Corfu Town is a thriving metropolis in comparison with most other Greek island "capitals", and is also very attractive. The town was a target for several foreign armies in the course of its long history, and the two fortresses which now protect its harbour were built by the Venetians, who ruled the island for four centuries and whose influence continues to give the town an Italian feel. From the old fort, or Palaio Frourio (open 8.30am-3pm daily; admission €4/£3.35), there is an impressive 360-degree view over the town and the coast beyond it.

Just behind the fortress is the Spianada, a pleasant green space that incorporates a cricket pitch, a legacy of the early 19th century, when the British conquered the island. Running along the Spianada is the Liston, an attractive avenue part-shaded by trees, partly covered by arcades. With its many restaurants and cafés, it is a perfect spot from which to watch the world go by – although resident Alexandros Ardonidis advises caution before you order. "If you sit somewhere for lunch, check the prices first and double-check the bill afterwards," he warns. A few blocks back from the Liston is Corfu Town's best-known landmark, the dark red bell-tower of St Spiridon church; the area all around is a mixture of quiet squares, intriguing alleyways and lively shopping streets.

 

 

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